Last Updated: January 3, 2024
When my family left Gjirokaster, Albania, to come to Greece, I was only four years old. They would always speak of the country with the highest admiration and love. So much so, they made it a point to visit Albania at least once a year to see my grandmother, who lives in Gjirokaster. I have the fondest memories from my visits to Gjirokaster throughout the years, and to this day, I still believe that Gjirokaster is one of the most beautiful towns in Albania.
There are plenty of amazing places to see and explore in Gjirokaster and various fun activities to do that you’ll need at least 3 days in this picturesque town. However, this article is focused mainly on the top places to see and which you should not miss during your visit. I have also included insider tips based on my visits for the past 20 something years.
Here is the ultimate guide to the charming town of Gjirokaster and also useful information that will help you plan an amazing holiday in Albania.
HOW TO GET TO GJIROKASTER
From Tirana
Albania’s main and only airport is Nënë Tereza, located in the country’s capital, Tirana. From there, you can choose a bus, a minivan or a taxi. It takes approximately 3 and a half hours to get to Gjirokaster from Tirana. I prefer minivans over the local buses, mainly because they’re less crowded, they make fewer stops and therefore you reach a little faster at your destination. The taxi can cost roughly 15,000 ALL (LEK is the local currency). The bus and minivan will cost you 1,000 ALL.
From Saranda
If you’re arriving from Saranda – the closest city to Gjirokaster by the Albanian riviera – then the bus will cost you 3,000 ALL. If you prefer to travel by taxi, the trip will cost you between 3,500 to 4,000 ALL (roughly €30).
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ARRIVING IN GJIROKASTER
All the buses stop at Boulevard 18 Shatori (at the Kastrati gas station). From there you can catch a taxi or a bus to take you to your destination. Taxis are quite cheap in Albania, especially within the small towns.
WHAT TO SEE IN GJIROKASTER
The old town of Gjirokaster is my favorite part of the town! For the past years, the town has been undergoing a major redevelopment to regain its old charm and revive the local economy with tourism.
Gjirokastra is “split” into the Old Town and the New Town. There are also a few cute villages surrounding the main town but the scenery does not change much; if you don’t have enough days in Gjirokaster, you can skip them.
GJIROKASTER OLD TOWN
The Old Town of Gjirokaster will give you the impression as if you’ve stepped into a fairytale. Most of the houses are made of old natural stones (the reason why the city has earned the nickname “City of Stone”) and have been preserved to their old state. This is one of the reasons why Gjirokaster is one of the most well-preserved Ottoman-era towns that exist.
The center of the Old Town is “Qafa e Pazarit”, where all the streets that lead to the old town meet. The majority of the ground floor houses have been converted into charming cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops. The scenery might sound cliche but in reality, the shop owners have done a fantastic job respecting the distinctive architecture of the town and ensuring that the experience of the visitors does not get spoiled by modern architecture. Be sure to check a cute little store located right under Peco Tour Agency, on-street “Rruga Peco Kirka”. The owner is creating unique rock and wood carvings. He can even have your portrait carved on a stone or a wooden plate! How cool is that?
TOP 5 PLACES TO SEE IN THE OLD TOWN
1. VISIT THE GJIROKASTRA CASTLE
Sitting proudly on a hill is the famous castle of Gjirokaster, visible from almost every corner of the town. This imposing, wonderful fortress dates back to the 12th century and is the crown jewel of Gjirokaster. I would highly recommend that you spare a couple of hours to take a tour inside the castle. The entrance fee is 400 ALL which includes entrance to the museum. Also, you’ll be treated to some pretty stunning panoramic views from here.
2. THE COLD WAR TUNNEL
If you decide to take a tour inside the castle, you might want to pay the extra 200 ALL and explore the Cold War Tunnel, located under it. The tunnel was designed to serve as a shelter in case of an invasion. It has 59 rooms and it is some 800m long, therefore the tour does not take long. It is an interesting sight but if you’re claustrophobic I’d suggest that you skip this one.
3. THE ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
Gjirokaster has been the birthplace of many important people. The most influential was the communist politician Enver Hoxha. The Ethnographic Museum is the house where Hoxha was born and nowadays serves as a replica of the traditional Gjirokastra houses. A visit to the Ethnographic Museum will give you a good insight into how the wealthy locals used to live back in the 19th century. The interior is decorated with folk clothes, kitchenware, and cultural artifacts so to give the impression as if the house has been used.
4. ISMAIL KADARE HOUSE
As I mentioned above, Gjirokastra is the birthplace of a few important figures. Except for Hoxha, here is where the famous writer Ismail Kadare was born. When the city was declared a UNESCO world heritage site, a lot of efforts have been put into restoring many of the historical buildings; Ismail Kadare’s house being one of them. This beautiful house was built in 1799 and it looks exactly like it used to when the writer was a kid. It is considered an important building in Gjirokaster not only for its history but also for its wonderful architecture.
5. SKENDULI HOUSE
This is the best example of the architecture of a traditional Gjirokastra house. Skenduli house has managed to withstand the passage of time making it the most authentic house in Gjirokaster. The facade and the interior are truly remarkable and what I find even more fascinating about this building, is that most of the objects you see inside, are original. It is an absolute must-see!
GJIROKASTER NEW TOWN
Gjirokaster is famous for its old town but it is worth sparing a few hours to also explore the new town. Make your way down to the main street, Boulevard 18 Shtatori, and start your walk from there. In the new town, you will be able to witness the everyday life of the locals. You will come across the town’s only university, the football field and other commercial buildings and shops. As you reach the hospital building, you’ll come across the daily flea local market selling clothes.
WHERE TO EAT
The amazing thing about most of the restaurants in Gjirokaster and Albania, in general, is that they use mostly bio ingredients. The ingredients are as fresh as it gets, seeing that supply comes directly from the local farmers or from the restaurant owner’s backyard. Gjirokaster offers some pretty great restaurants, serving delicious dishes at very cheap prices.
Here are some of the best restaurants to eat during your visit to Gjirokaster.
BEST RESTAURANTS IN GJIROKASTER
- Kujtimi Restaurant – Delicious food made with fresh ingredients and excellent service. The restaurant has tables outside, surrounded by vine leaves and flowers. Be sure to try the traditional rice balls (qifqi) which is a local delicacy and frog legs (kemb bretkose).
- Restaurant Kerculla – This is one of the most popular restaurants in Gjirokaster. It is located uphill so you’ll need a taxi to get there but the views are totally worth it! You could also walk there (a 30-minute walk), but I wouldn’t recommend it seeing that the road is all uphill and there is no proper sidewalk. At Kerculla you’ll find Albanian dishes with a modern twist at very reasonable prices. There is also a hotel adjacent to the restaurant, owned by the same people. The rooms are very comfortable, the breakfast buffet generous and the swimming pool can be very tempting during the hot summer months.
- Kodra Restaurant – Just like Kerculla, this too is a hotel and a restaurant. The building is almost a landmark in Gjirokaster due to its history and its beautiful traditional architecture. At its restaurant, you will find a combination of modern and traditional cuisine. Be sure to sit outside so you can enjoy your meal over the panoramic views of Gjirokaster and the valley.
LOCAL DISHES YOU MUST TRY IN GJIROKASTER
If you’re looking for a farm-to-table dining experience, then you’re at the right place. In Gjirokaster and many other smaller towns in Albania, people cook with the freshest ingredients which most of the time, they grow in their own backyard. The cuisine in Gjirokaster is made up of simple ingredients but with lots of love. Below are a few local dishes you must try during your visit.
- Oshaf – a pudding made with dried figs, cooked in milk and garnished with cinnamon
- Shapkat – A corn pie filled with various greens such as spinach and leeks, also onions and feta cheese.
- Dhalle – Shapkat is usually accompanied by a glass of this refreshing drink. Dhalle is made of yogurt, water, and salt. It sounds simple but it is absolutely delicious, especially during the hot summer days.
- Qifqi – Rice balls, with herbs; this is one of the most traditional dishes in Gjirokaster.
- Sarma – Stuffed vine leaves with rice and herbs
- Kemb bretkose – Frog legs. Although they’re not very meaty, they very tasty and it’s a nice dish to order as a starter.
- Sultjac – Rice pudding
- Trahana – Albanian pottage (it looks a lot like porridge with a salty flavor), made with bread, butter, and white cheese on top. This dish brings so many childhood memories!
WHERE TO SLEEP
Although there is a lack of 5* properties in Gjirokaster (which I believe is a good thing), the town has no shortage of cool places to stay. You will find instead a few boutique hotels, many hostels, and plenty of AirBnB’s.
HERE ARE THE TOP 3 PLACES TO STAY IN GJIROKASTER
This beautiful 4* hotel is located only minutes away from the Gjirokastra Castle. The hotel is quite new (it opened its doors in 2018) and the rooms are very chic and modern. All rooms come with a view, some overlooking the valley and others the castle. The highlight of this beautiful place is, its beautiful restaurant and bar located on the massive outdoor terrace. Order a cocktail and watch as the sun sets behind the mountains. The restaurant has been a meeting point for the locals for many years and I can’t recommend it enough.
I know I mentioned above Kerculla restaurant but I do believe that the hotel also deserves a place here. The rooms have been designed with respect to the local architecture without compromising on comfort. The rate of the room is very reasonable and like with most hotels in Gjirokaster, breakfast is included. The views of the rooms range from those overlooking the mountains and the castle to those with views over the swimming pool or the valley. Start your day by indulging in the generous buffet and taking in the picturesque landscape. This is a great place to stay if you’re looking for traditional accommodation but with the facilities of a hotel.
Stone City Hostel is possibly the best hostel in Gjirokaster. It is a cute hideout in the center of the old town and the owner will make you feel at home from the moment you enter. It is extremely affordable; prices for a dorm start at €10, with breakfast, included. Another fantastic thing about this place is that the owner can arrange for you walking tours or even small day trips to explore the nearby towns. Seriously, if you’re a backpacker, don’t think twice, book it!
WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE VISITING ALBANIA
- Visa requirements – Although Albania is not a member of the EU, you don’t need a visa to enter as a tourist. For more info on the visa requirements, you can check this site.
- Currency – The Albanian currency is the lek. The exchange from EUR to ALL is €1 = 123 ALL. Download the XE Currency Exchange Converter app to check the latest currency exchange rates.
- Roads – The national roads are in very good condition and easy to drive on. However, most of the villages and rural towns have narrow streets. Gjirokastra, in particular the old town, has very narrow and pretty steep streets, so it’s best if you explore it on foot. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes.
- Safety – Albania is a very safe country to visit and the people are very kind. The locals respect the tourists and you will encounter nothing but their warm hospitality.
- When to visit Gjirokaster – The best time to visit Gjirokaster is during the summer, from April to November. With that being said, due to its location, Gjirokastra has some of the hottest summers I’ve ever experienced, so I would suggest you avoid visiting in August.
